May 31 Driving in the Supramonte Mountains for a shepherds' picnic

 

Magnificent mountains and valleys in the Supramonte Range

Today’s highlight was to be a shepherds’ picnic in a hidden place AKA way off the beaten track. But first we piled into 4WDs and headed into the mountains. I think we were going to see a recently discovered Nuraghe site in the forest. It was a shocker of a road which seemed to go almost straight up the side of a mountain switching back on itself all the way up. It was a fascinating and at the same time an horrendous drive as the vehicle Lindsay and I were in was a clapped-out Landrover which didn’t look roadworthy. We sat in the very back on bench seats with little to hold onto and no seat belts. I have some horrid bruises from being thrown around. Enough said. We eventually stopped and tumbled out of the back of the ‘car’ and headed off after our guide who took us on a walk further up the hillside. Along the way he described - to those fortunate enough to be close to him! - the vegetation and shared some history. (It was a little slow going for me because of my injured toe!)  

Shepherds drive these days

Quite magnificent countryside

The vegetation was quite lush in places with many herbs and flowers

Beautiful spot for a lecture

There was no mention of seeing the Nuraghe site but at a stunningly scenic spot the guide gave an interesting talk about the shepherds and kidnappers of the mountains. What goes up …. soon it was back to the vehicles to then barrel back down the mountain for a pitstop and to grab a coffee.  With some persuading from a fellow passenger, we got to shift into the back seat (and the driver was told to slow down) and we zoomed off for the next ‘adventure’. We were taken to an isolated spot deep in the mountains to what they referred to as a shepherds' hut where we were to have our picnic. I must tell you that these are the mountains where the ‘bandits’ used to hang out for 100s of years and I can understand why they chose the spot - it is very difficult to reach.

The scenery on the next leg of the drive was quite magical and a little more comfortable although the road was perhaps even worse. We passed through old olive groves with goats peering over stone walls at us. Sorry I took no photos of that drive as we simply had to hang on for dear life - but we made it and our driver looked like he was about to collapse. It was a very rough drive.

Behind that picket fence was an area as big as that in front of us.

It was quite an amazing place and smelled very strongly of sheep

A few cute kids came to say hello and beg for food

Once out of the car we climbed up to the shepherds’ hut. They say that this hut has been used for hundreds of years and is still used by shepherds although our guide told us that now most flocks graze in the valleys. The hut was beside a humongous cavern which I imagine would have been able to hold many hundreds of sheep/goats. In one small corner in an enclosure within a bigger enclosure were a couple of sweet little kid goats bleating at us and outside a donkey poked its craggy head over the fence - but there were no sheep or adult goats there albeit lots of ‘calling cards’.

That stone structure topped with branches beside the cave is the shepherds' hut

Our drivers and guide served us

Our ‘chefherd’ deftly cut up the roast pig

The cave was mammoth

The donkey got the leftover lettuce

The food, served by our drivers, was rustic and delicious. Platters of sheep’s cheese and cured meats with ‘pane carasau’ (Sardinian bread) were followed by suckling pig and roast sausage which was reakky delicious. We could have also tried the brains, tongue etc of the beast if we wanted to. I was keen to try the tongue but someone beat me to it. The tomatoes served with the meat were huge and juicy. All that was washed down with many jugs of good Sardinian red wine, a Cannonau special to the region. We even had dessert - melon served on lettuce leaves drizzled with mountain honey plus a little digestive - Mirto, a traditional Sardinian liquor made from the berries of the myrtle bush. It was quite an experience and absolutely scrumptious.

We returned to our hotel exhausted and bruised but happy. That night Lindsay and I dined alone - not that we really need much feeding. I had goat cooked with wild fennel and Lindsay had sausages of cured pork roasted over the open fire. Plus a bottle of Sardinian red. We are really enjoying the Sardinian wines.

May 30 Nuraghe, wine and Su Gologone

Barumini Nuraghe

Today we headed north to the mountains. Our first stop was near Barumini to visit an ancient nuraghe. Nuraghes are ancient megalithic edifices, watch towers, or fortresses found in Sardinia. They were built 3500-4000 years ago during the Nuragic civilization and are dotted throughout Sardinia. The building of this particular one commenced around C15 BC.  It reminded me of the Iron Age Brochs we saw in Scotland in 2018. When I mentioned that to our guide she said that ancient Sardinia had links with the Celts. So the commonality made some sense. We wandered through the remains of an Iron Age village outside the main tower before climbing to the crumbling tower top. Some of that ascent was within the walls of the tower. When we reached the top the view was breathtaking but then we dived back inside the walls to descend in the narrow space between the shells of the tower down into the heart of the fortress. Of course we eventually had to retrace our steps ending up with grazed shins and elbows. It was very hard going but I’m glad I did it (despite my broken toe from the previous night - I kicked on the leg of the bed!).

An interesting structure- perhaps a ceremonial chamber

We climbed to the top only to descend to the bottom way below 

Then we had to do it in reverse!

This was a private church with a delightfully tranquil garden

We saw the excavated ruins of another ancient buried village close by before a visit to a winery complete with tasting and what they called a light lunch - 3 courses! 

Historic wine making vessels

Some of their wine is prepared in a style which mimics that of ancient Georgia, a style dating back 8000 years. Today they use a slightly modified version of the Qvevri

The winery had a pretty garden in an idyllic setting 

Local cheese made from sheep’s milk and cured pork

Exhausted but happy we finished the day with cocktails on a hanging terrace gazing out at the magnificent Gennargentu mountains. And to crown this gustatory experience we were presented with mouth-watering suckling pig cooked in front of a huge open fire. What a day! What a place! The food! Our accommodation, Hotel Su Gologone, is superb - a collection of whitewashed ‘rooms’ sprawling up the mountainside, decorated with stunning artwork.

It was quite a walk to get up here but the view over the mountains was worth it.

Suckling pig roasting by the fire

The works of art were quite beautiful and extraordinary 

May 29 Cagliari – and so our tour of Sardinia and Corsica was launched

 

This morning, the first full day of our tour, we were picked up by a little road train which chugged and clattered us to the top of one of Cagliari's seven steep hills - well the one we tackled was steep! Led by a local historian guide, we had a stimulating tour of the National Archaeological Museum but there was simply not enough time to do it justice - this small island’s history dates back over 8000 years. When we finally emerged into the sunlight, we picked our way back down the hill on foot. Our first taste of ancient Cagliari was marvellous - we strolled through the old walled city which spills down the side of this steep bastion to an imposing cathedral and on to the Bastione di Saint Remy with its expansive views over the bays and distant mountains.

Giant stone men, the origins of which are unknown

Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello

Inside opulence leapt off every wall and out of every grotto. The marble was magnificent

One of the gates to the old city

Caper bushes cascaded down the city walls

That evening we ventured back up the hill for dinner - from where we are staying if you don’t dine in (and we did that the first night) it’s either uphill then down or downhill then back up! We stopped at a little osteria for a scrumptious pizza topped with Sfilacci di cavallo – shredded horse meat something we hadn’t tasted since being in Uzbekistan. Delicious! Horse meat is very popular in many parts of Italy including Sardinia. Here, horse meat is given to the young and to people convalescing - it’s lean and high in iron and they believe it has health benefits. A bottle of Sardinian wine and a couple of glasses of grappa with sweet raviolini and we were very happy. 

Tomorrow we head towards the mountains and more delicious food - suckling pig for dinner I believe.

May 27-28 at the beginning!

Sardinia, the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea

The journey from home to Sardinia was long and tedious with too many hours hanging around in airport lounges but we finally arrived safe and sound and thankfully with all our luggage. Sardinia, or more precisely Cagliari where we now are, is more-ish. I mean it is fascinating, so different to quiet sedate Melbourne, and makes me want to know and see more. Our first day in Sardinia we were on our own and strolled down to the busy port. 

Amerigo Vespucci is an Italian Naval training ship 

Setting the right mood for our tour!

That night we met our tour director and the other people who would be on the tour with us – 28 in total. We then headed out for dinner together - “to a local restaurant”. It was to be a short walk to a local restaurant and yes it was local and not a particularly long walk but it was up hill and down sometimes quite steep in places. The slope set the pace!

May 28 – June 11 Sardinia and Corsica

 

And now for something different -  a organised bus tour, our first!  We would be touring Sardinia and Corsica the lands of myths and legends. Two islands so different from each other – one Italian and one French, although we were to discover that they are fiercely independent with their own languages, sense of pride and long, often tortured, histories of invasion and domination. The Vandals, Barbarians, the Moors, the Pisans and the Genoese all wanted to possess these jewel - add to that list in more recent history the Italians and French for Sardinia and Corsica respectively have fought successfully - but memories are long and the sense of national prided strong so who knows what the future holds. But to the present ....

May-June Travels in the ancient Mediterranean Basin

What came next was to be a voyage of discovery, traveling through millennia of ancient history, overlaid by a thin veil of modernity. It promises to be a fascinating unfolding tale about the occupation of the Mediterranean Basin and its lands through history, ancient and recent. The fortifications, the ruins, sometimes the language and customs, tell the story of the living ‘Game of Thrones’.

Top: The Empire of Alexander the Great (Alexancer III of Macedonia)   Bottom: Roman Empire

It could have started with Alexander the Great, but it didn’t. By the age of 30, however, he had created one of the largest empires in history, stretching from Greece, the eastern Mediterranwan countries and the Levantine to northwestern India and Central Asia. He was undefeated in battle and is widely considered to be one of history's greatest and most successful military commanders. The Empire lasted until 323 BC when he died. Following his death civil wars brought out across the empire. The Roman Empire followed in 27 BC. Its western empire collapsed in 476 AD but the eastern (Byzantium) empire lasted until the fall of Constantinople in 1453. Enter the Ottoman Empire which survived from C14 to C20.

Top: The Vikings Routes . Bottom: Ottoman Empire

During those times, others lusted for land and domination, traveling through the lands looting and colonising - the Phoenicians, Arabs, Genoese, Genghis Khan, Timur, the Vikings, the Visigoths ….. and so it went and on it goes. At the same time others were focused on knowledge and trade - the Chinese traveled to distance places, forming alliances. But to our small odyssey …..For over seven weeks we traveled through the Mediterranean sailing nine of its dozen seas and visiting 25 of its islands and many shores. Our travels to Sardinia, Corsica, Sicily, the Aeolian Islands and Malta will form the first chapter of our Mediterranean explorations..

The region we traversed before going north and then west