May 31 Driving in the Supramonte Mountains for a Shepherds' picnic

 

Magnificent mountains and valleys

Today’s highlight was to be a shepherds’ picnic in a hidden place AKA way off the beaten track. But first we piled into 4WDs and headed into the mountains I think we were going to see a recently discovered Nuraghe site in the forest. It was a shocker of a road which seemed to go almost straight up the side of a mountain switching back on itself all the way up. It was a fascinating and at the same a horrendous drive as the vehicle Lindsay and I were in was a clapped-out Land-rover which didn’t look road worthy to me. We sat in the very back on bench seats with little to hold onto and no seat belts. I have some horrid bruises from being thrown around. Enough said. We eventually stop and tumbled out of the back of the ‘car’ and headed off after our guide took us on a walk further up the hillside. Along the way he explained (to those fortunate enough to be close to him!) the vegetation and some history. (It was a little slow going for me because I had an injured toe!)  

Shepherds drive these days

The vegetation was quite lush in places with many herbs and flowers

There was no mention of seeing the Nuraghe site but at a stunningly scenic spot the guide gave an interesting talk about the shepherd and kidnappers of the mountains. What goes up …. It was back to the vehicles only to shoot back down the mountain for a pit stop and to grab a coffee.  With some persuading from a fellow passenger, we got to shift into the back seat (and the driver was told to slow down) and zoomed off for the next ‘adventure’. We were taken to an isolated spot deep in the mountains to what they referred to as a shepherd’s hut for our picnic. I must tell you that these are the mountains where the ‘bandits’ used to hang out for 100s of years.

The drive was quite magical and a little more comfortable although the road was perhaps even worse. We passed through old olive groves with goats peering over stone walls at us. Sorry no pix of that drive as we simple had to hang on for dear life - but we made it and our driver looked like he was about to collapse. It was a very rough drive.

Behind that picket fence was an area as big as what was in front of us.

It was quite an amazing place and smelled very strongly of sheep

A few cute kids

They say the hut has been used for hundreds of years and is still used by shepherds although our guide told us that most flocks graze in the valleys. The hut was beside a humongous cavern which I imagine would have been able to hold many hundreds of sheep/goats. In one small corner in an enclosure within a bigger enclosure were a couple of sweet little kid goats bleating at us and outside a donkey poked its craggy head over the fence - but there were no sheep or adult goats there albeit lots of ‘calling cards’.

That stone structure topped with branches beside the cave is the shepherds hut

Our drivers and guide served us

The ‘chefherd’ cutting up the roast pig. We got to try brains, tongue etc if we wanted to. I was keen to try the tongue but someone beat me to it. The tomatoes were huge and juicy

The cave was huge

The donkey got the leftover lettuce

The food was rustic and served by our drivers. Platters of sheep’s cheese and cured meats with ‘pane carasau’ (Sardinian bread) were followed by suckling pig and roast sausage which was delicious. All that was washed down with many jugs of good Sardinian red wine, a Cannonau special to the region. We even had dessert - melon served on lettuce leaves drizzled with mountain honey plus a little digestive - Mirto, a traditional Sardinian liquor made from the berries of the myrtle bush. It was quite an experience.

We returned exhausted and bruised but happy. Last night we dined alone not that we really need much feeding. I had goat cooked with wild fennel and Lindsay had sausages of cured pork roasted over the open fire. Plus a bottle of Sardinian red. We’re really enjoying the wines.

May 30 Nuraghe, wine and Su Gologone

 

Today we headed north to the mountains first stop near Barumini to visit an ancient nuraghe. Nuraghes are ancient megalithic edifices, watch towers, fortresses found in Sardinia. They were built 3500-4000 years ago during the Nuragic civilization and are dotted throughout Sardinia. The building of this particular one commenced around C15 BC.  It reminded me of the Iron Age Brochs we saw in Scotland in 2018; according to our guide ancient Sardinia had links with the Celts. We wandered through the remains of an Iron Age village outside the main tower before climbing to the crumbling tower top. Some of that ascent was within the walls of the tower. The view from the top was breathtaking but then we dived back inside the walls to descend in the narrow space between the shells of the tower down into the heart of the fortress. Of course we eventually had to retrace our steps ending up with grazed shins and elbows. It was very hard going but I’m glad I did it (broken toe and all!).

We climbed up here only to descend to the bottom which seemed so far down 

Then we had to do it in reverse!

This was a private church with a delightful tranquil garden

We saw the excavated ruins of another buried village close by before a visit to a winery complete with tasting and what they called a light lunch - 3 courses! 

Some of their wine is prepared in a style which mimics that of ancient Georgia, a style dating back 8000 years. Today they use a slightly modified version of the Qvevri

Local sheep’s cheese and cured pork

Exhausted but happy we finished the day with cocktails on a hanging terrace gazing out at the magnificent Gennargentu mountains. Oh and then we dined on suckling pig. What a day! What a place! The food! Our accommodation, Hotel in Su Gologone, is superb - a collection of whitewashed ‘rooms’ sprawling up the mountainside, decorated with stunning artwork.

It was quite a walk to get up here but the view was worth it.

Suckling pig roasting over the fire

The works of art were quite beautiful and unique

May 29 Cagliari – and so our tour of Sardinia and Corsica was launched

 

This morning, the first full day of our tour, we were picked up by a little road train which chugged and clattered us to the top of one of its seven steep hills - well the one we tackled was steep! Next morning, the first day of our tour, we were picked up by a little road train which chugged and clattered us to the top of one of its seven steep hills - well the one we tackled was steep!  Led by a local historian guide, we had a stimulating tour of the National Archaeological Museum but there was simply not enough time to do it justice - this small island’s history dates back over 8000 years. When we finally emerged into the sunlight, we picked our way back down the hill on foot. Our first taste of ancient Cagliari was marvellous - we strolled through the old walled city which spills down the side of this steep bastion to an imposing cathedral and on to the Bastione di Saint Remy with its expansive views over the bays and distant mountains.

Giant stone men origins of which are unknown

Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello

Inside opulence leapt off every wall and out of every grotto. The marble was magnificent

One of the gates to the old city

Caper bushes cascaded down the city walls

That evening we ventured back up the hill for dinner - from where we are staying if you don’t dine in (and we did that the first night) it’s either uphill then down or downhill then back up! We stopped at a little osteria for a scrumptious pizza topped with Sfilacci di cavallo – shredded horse meat something we hadn’t tasted since being in Uzbekistan. Delicious! Horse meat is very popular in many parts of Italy including Sardinia. Here, horse meat is given to the young and people convalescing - it’s lean and high in iron and they believe it has health benefits. A bottle of Sardinian wine and a couple of glasses of grappa with sweet raviolini and we were very happy. 

Tomorrow we head towards the mountains and more delicious food - suckling pig for dinner I believe.

May 27-28 at the beginning!

Sardinia, the second-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea

The journey from home to Sardinia was long and tedious with too many hours hanging around in airport lounges but we finally arrived safe and sound and thankfully with all our luggage. Sardinia, or more precisely Cagliari where we now are, is more-ish. I mean it is fascinating, so different to quiet sedate Melbourne, and makes me want to know and see more. Our first day in Sardinia we were on our own and strolled down to the busy port. 

Amerigo Vespucci is an Italian Naval training ship 

Setting the right mood for our tour!

That night we met our tour director and the other people who would be on the tour with us – 28 in total. We then headed out for dinner together. It was to be a short walk to a local restaurant and yes it was local and not a particularly long walk but it was up hill and down sometimes quite steep in places. It set the pace!

May 28 – June 11 Sardinia and Corsica

 

And now for something different a bus tour of Sardinia and Corsica the lands, they say, of myths and legends. Two islands so different from each other – one Italian and one French, although we were to discover that they are fiercely independent with their own languages, sense of pride and long often tortured histories of invasion and domination. The Vandals, Barbarians, the Moors, the Pisans and the Genoese add to that in more recent history the Italians and French for Sardinia and Corsica respectively.