May 31 Driving in the Supramonte Mountains for a Shepherds' picnic

 

Magnificent mountains and valleys

Today’s highlight was to be a shepherds’ picnic in a hidden place AKA way off the beaten track. But first we piled into 4WDs and headed into the mountains I think we were going to see a recently discovered Nuraghe site in the forest. It was a shocker of a road which seemed to go almost straight up the side of a mountain switching back on itself all the way up. It was a fascinating and at the same a horrendous drive as the vehicle Lindsay and I were in was a clapped-out Land-rover which didn’t look road worthy to me. We sat in the very back on bench seats with little to hold onto and no seat belts. I have some horrid bruises from being thrown around. Enough said. We eventually stop and tumbled out of the back of the ‘car’ and headed off after our guide took us on a walk further up the hillside. Along the way he explained (to those fortunate enough to be close to him!) the vegetation and some history. (It was a little slow going for me because I had an injured toe!)  

Shepherds drive these days

The vegetation was quite lush in places with many herbs and flowers

There was no mention of seeing the Nuraghe site but at a stunningly scenic spot the guide gave an interesting talk about the shepherd and kidnappers of the mountains. What goes up …. It was back to the vehicles only to shoot back down the mountain for a pit stop and to grab a coffee.  With some persuading from a fellow passenger, we got to shift into the back seat (and the driver was told to slow down) and zoomed off for the next ‘adventure’. We were taken to an isolated spot deep in the mountains to what they referred to as a shepherd’s hut for our picnic. I must tell you that these are the mountains where the ‘bandits’ used to hang out for 100s of years.

The drive was quite magical and a little more comfortable although the road was perhaps even worse. We passed through old olive groves with goats peering over stone walls at us. Sorry no pix of that drive as we simple had to hang on for dear life - but we made it and our driver looked like he was about to collapse. It was a very rough drive.

Behind that picket fence was an area as big as what was in front of us.

It was quite an amazing place and smelled very strongly of sheep

A few cute kids

They say the hut has been used for hundreds of years and is still used by shepherds although our guide told us that most flocks graze in the valleys. The hut was beside a humongous cavern which I imagine would have been able to hold many hundreds of sheep/goats. In one small corner in an enclosure within a bigger enclosure were a couple of sweet little kid goats bleating at us and outside a donkey poked its craggy head over the fence - but there were no sheep or adult goats there albeit lots of ‘calling cards’.

That stone structure topped with branches beside the cave is the shepherds hut

Our drivers and guide served us

The ‘chefherd’ cutting up the roast pig. We got to try brains, tongue etc if we wanted to. I was keen to try the tongue but someone beat me to it. The tomatoes were huge and juicy

The cave was huge

The donkey got the leftover lettuce

The food was rustic and served by our drivers. Platters of sheep’s cheese and cured meats with ‘pane carasau’ (Sardinian bread) were followed by suckling pig and roast sausage which was delicious. All that was washed down with many jugs of good Sardinian red wine, a Cannonau special to the region. We even had dessert - melon served on lettuce leaves drizzled with mountain honey plus a little digestive - Mirto, a traditional Sardinian liquor made from the berries of the myrtle bush. It was quite an experience.

We returned exhausted and bruised but happy. Last night we dined alone not that we really need much feeding. I had goat cooked with wild fennel and Lindsay had sausages of cured pork roasted over the open fire. Plus a bottle of Sardinian red. We’re really enjoying the wines.