June 27 Gozo and Xlendi

Today we drove to the northern part of Malta past the Victoria Lines which are fortifications. We didn’t actually see the fortifications but this was originally known as the North West Front and is a line of fortifications that spans 12 km along the width of Malta, dividing the north of the island from the more heavily populated south. They were built in the late C19th by the British to deter invasion from the north. We were heading for the second biggest island of the archipelago of Malta, Gozo Island also known as Homer’s legendary Island of Calypso. In Greek mythology, Calypso was a nymph who lived on the island of Ogygia (Gozo me thinks), where, according to Homer's Odyssey, she detained Odysseus for 7 years. [Now, as I write this, I am in Athens and surrounded by Greek mythology. Untangling it from actual history is often very difficult]. 

I thought that perhaps I'd include a map of where the archipelago of Malta is and where this small island is that we are heading to today. Gozo is one of the three largest islands in the 7-island archipelago of Malta. Malta is such a tiny island nation yet has attracted many invaders, would-be conquerors.   

Malta with neighbouring Sicily as a size comparison

Gozo is the small island to the NW of the main island

Anyway there we were across the North West Frontier on a ferry bound for Mgarr Harbour. There we were bundled into a bus - as a small diversion we are back driving on the left side of the road, very confusing - and driven through winding streets at rather a breakneck pace out into the countryside where we visited Ta' Pinu Church. This church was built by public subscription following a miracle in 1883 involving a spinster, Karmni Grima, and a small chapel located on the site. That original chapel has been incorporated into the larger church.  Outside the church are great sweeping walls covered in mosaics and inside the church all the images are mosaics not paintings and they really glow.  

Ta' Oinu Church - imposing in the distance

The walls of mosaics in front of the church are most impressive

Stunning detail

These are all mosaics

Time to head back for a look around Victoria which is known for its medieval Citadel, with fortified walls. There's only so much walking one can do so we opted for a cool drink in the square rather than to walk to the citadel - or shop as many people did.

The decorated pillars intrigued me

Apparently Gozo is famous for its crystal clear swimming beaches and harbours. With swimming in mind, we were taken to a pretty little harbour village of Xlendi in the southwest of the island. A few went in for a swim while most of us sat right on the very edge of the water in the shade – it was delightful.  The restaurant, Churchill, has quite a history. Anthony Grech excavated the rock in 1947 (auspicious year!) to make a boathouse for small fishing craft and later turned it into a bar.  It is named Churchill because he had great admiration for Winston Churchill.  It was a delightful place and evidently they serve sizzling steaks on lava stones. We had Tortellacci which was black pasta stuffed with seafood and cream and infused with Pernod plus some Bruschetta.  Delicious!

Xlendi 

The coastline is very rocky with many grottoa

Tortellacci = black pasta stuffed with seafood and cream and infused with Pernod plus Bruschetta. Delicious!

Cooled, relaxed  and well fed, it was time to head back to the harbour and catch the ferry back to Valletta. 

The land looks ddry and rocky

I was quite taken with the balconies

Extremely narrow roads just  waiting for a jam

On the way back we got caught in a bad traffic jam. The roads are so narrow and we were in a large bus - say no more. Eventually we got moving but Gilberto had to get out and 'direct' traffic at one stage.

I found the language quite intriguing.

I found the language quite intriguing. It is a conglomeration of many languages reflecting the occupying nations over the millennia - it is made up of 60% Semitic (Arabic) and you can hear that clearly in the spoken language, 30% Roman/Latin and it incorporates words from other languages even creating new words as hybrids. Although most closely related to Arabic, the letters are written in Latin English which is the last adopted language - the Btritish were the last occupiers.  What lies ahead for this feisty little island nation situated at the crossroads of many powerful nations is anyone's guess but it has a long and proud history. 

June 26 Valletta

Yesterday our last day in Modica, actually our last in Sicily, was one of those interminable transition days – waiting to board a bus then waiting to board a ferry. The ferry was to take us to Malta – hooray!!  

Terrible photo but I was so excited to finally be arriving in Malta

Entering the ancient harbour was magnificent. All the photos you’ve ever seen of Malta – it didn’t disappoint! We were pretty pooped so were very happy to be whisked off to our hotel, a grand affair on the edge of the harbour, and collapse on the bed. 

Breakfast with a view

Grand Hotel Excelsior - view out to the pool. It also has its own marina!

Next morning after a lavish breakfast we were off and running or rather climbing – we had to get from the hotel to the old city, basically the citadel. It was to be a walking day, at least part of it.

We were to walk past this sculpture many times over the next 4 days

Part of the city walls

The old Royal Opera house - built and destroyed many times 

A local guide walked us through part of the city. Astonishing! Thousands of years of history. More recently, 500 years ago, the King of Spain gave Malta to the Knights of Saint John of Jerusalem and Valletta became their capital. Here they built one of the mightiest fortress cities in the world.  UNESCO listed of course. The ramparts are enormous and really need to be seen to be believed. 

We visited the St John’s Co-Cathedral with its sumptuous, opulent, overwhelmingly dazzling interior. 

The floor is made up of the graves of Knights past

the tapestries were magnificent but they are being removed for preservation - for how long?

The Maltese Cross

The eight points of the eight-pointed cross have been given a number of symbolic interpretations, such as representing the eight Languages of the Knights Hospitaller -Auvergne, Provence, France, Aragon, Castille and Portugal, Italy, Germany, and the British Isles; or alternatively the 'eight obligations or aspirations' of the knights. [What one is told by the tourist guides has to be taken at face value rather than as absolute fact. That plagues us as we travel wishing always to know and understand the world and its history.]

We then entered the sacristy and that was quite breathtaking even a little spine chilling. No one spoke. Some of Caravaggio's paintings hang there - the beheading of St John the Baptist and St Jerome who translated many biblical texts into Latin from Hebrew, Aramaic, and Greek.

A modest entrance to such opulent grandeur

And now, after a pause to try and absorb what we had just seen, we headed for more wonders.

Intersting bit of history.  Malta although independent is still very British 

Some light relief!

Many of the buildings have these enclosed balconies often is bright colours

We were to have visited St John's Hospital - the very heart of the Knights of St John - but sadly didn't!

We seemed to have been climbing for ever yet we climbed a little more before descending to the St Elmo Bastions where we climbed down steep steps into a dungeon-like space for the ‘Malta Experience’.  This turned out to be a 3D film depicting 7000 years of Malta’s history. A brilliant experience and a fascinating history (we were to see some of the ancient ruins a couple of days later). 

Inside St Elmo Bastions

Our bus picked us up and whisked us off to Sliema where, after a light lunch, we boarded a boat for a harbour cruise - the harbour is huge with multiple 'arms' and the sights are wonderful.  The battlements seem to start right at the water's edge and are tiered up and back to enclose the cities. The Knights of old had a huge waterfront to defend.

Sliema a pretty port

Aperol Spritz were becoming my go-to thirst quencher.

Our hotel right on the water but built into the city wall

I thought that this might be a small naval base but Malta does not have a navy, air force or coastguard. Her armed forces are equipped with a maritime and air component.

The Upper Barrakka Gardens built on the upper tier of St Peter and St Paul Bastion built 1560s.

The cruise liner looked so incongruous against the ancient battlements

There are many huge private yachts moored in the marinas dotting the harbours

Yes that is a lift - up to the Upper Barrakka Gardens.

That evening feeling pretty exhausted after a very full day, we climbed back to the old city to a marvellous restaurant built within the city walls – Rampila. We had to climb countless steps only to then dive down narrow steps and out onto a wee terrace right within the walls of the old city.  It had been a huge but fascinating day.

It seemed steep at the time - actually it was steep!

Aljotta fish soup followed by traditional rabbit stew

Rampila nestled within the city walls

 Rampila restaurant in the daylight