June 27 Gozo and Xlendi

 Today we drove to the northern part of Malta passed the Victoria Lines which are fortifications. We didn’t actually see the fortifications but this was originally known as the North West Front and is a line of fortifications that spans 12 km along the width of Malta, dividing the north of the island from the more heavily populated south. Built in the late C19th by the British to deter invasion from the north. We were heading for the 2nd biggest island of the archipelago of Malta, Gozo Island also known as Homer’s legendary Island of Calypso. In Greek mythology, Calypso was a nymph who lived on the island of Ogygia (Gozo me thinks), where, according to Homer's Odyssey, she detained Odysseus for 7 years. [Now, as I write this, I am in Athens and surrounded by Greek mythology. Untangling it from actual history is often very difficult]. 

I thought that perhaps I'd include a map of where the archipelago of Malta is and where this small island is that we are heading to today. Gozo is one of the three largest islands in the 7 island archipelago of Malta. Malta is such a tiny island nation yet has attracted many invaders, would-be conquerors.   

Gozo is the small island to the NW of the main island

Anyway there we were across the North West Frontier on a ferry bound for Mgarr Harbour. There we were bundled into a bus - a small diversion to say we are back driving on the left side of the road, very confusing - and driven through winding streets at rather a breakneck pace out into the countryside where we visited Ta' Pinu Church. This church was built by public subscription following a miracle in 1883 involving a spinster, Karmni Grima, and a small chapel located on the site; that original chapel has been incorporated into the larger church.  Outside the church are great sweeping walls covered in mosaics and inside the church all the images inside are mosaics not paintings and they really glow.  

Imposing in the distance

The walls of mosaics in front ofthe church are most impressive

Stunning detail

These are all mosaics

Time to head back first for a look around Victoria which is known for its medieval Citadel, with fortified walls. There's only so much walking one can do so we opted for a cool drink in the square rather than to walk to the citadel - or shop as many people did.

The decorated pillars intrigued me

Apparently Gozo is famous for its crystal clear swimming beaches and harbours. With swimming in mind, we were taken to a pretty little harbour village of Xlendi in the south west of the island. A few went in for a swim while most of us sat right on the very edge of the water in the shade – it was delightful.  The restaurant, Churchill, has quite a history. Anthony Grech excavated the rock in 1947 (auspicious year!) to make a boathouse for small fishing craft and later turned it into a bar.  It is named Churchill because he had great admiration for Winston Churchill.  It was a delightful place and evidently they serve sizzling steaks on lava stones. We had Tortellacci which was black pasta stuffed with seafood and cream and infused with pernod plus some Bruschetta.  Yummy!

The coastline is very rocky 

Cooled, relaxed  and well fed, it was time to head back to the harbour and catch the ferry back to Malta. 

On the way back we got caught in a bad traffic jam. The roads are so narrow and we were in a large bus - say no more. Eventually we got moving but Gilberto had to get out and 'direct' traffic at one stage.

I include this road sign simply for the language; I found it quite intriguing. It is a conglomeration of many languages reflecting the occupying nations over the millennia - it is made up of 60% Semitic (Arabic) and you can hear that clearly in the spoken language, 30% Roman/Latin and it incorporates words from other languages even creating new words as hybrids. Although most closely related to Arabic, the letters are written in Latin English which is the last adopted language - they were the last occupiers.  What lies ahead for this feisty little island nation situated at the crossroads of many powerful nations is anyone's guess but it has a long and proud history.