June 8 Corte, the old capital

 

From Ajaccio inland to Corte and back out to the coast

Leaving Corsica’s capital city behind, we took a scenic train ride to reach Corsica’s old capital city, Corte.  The train rattled along on rails over a hundred years old built, I believe, by Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte the last monarch of France. The journey took us through the scenic mountains of Corsica’s northeast coast but we left the train at the ancient capital of Corte. 

Mountain villages

Villages along the train route offered a range of hiking options

Beautiful Corte

The 'tourist train'

From the station we climbed aboard one of the tourist trains which took us to Corte’s historical museum which sits at the base of the old fortifications, the Citadella di Corti. We had an audio guide, but it was unfathomable, so Lindsay and I headed for the ramparts high on a rocky outcrop. We wandered where we liked – it was quite wonderful with magnificent views out over the countryside (when you could get near and see over the walls). We walked all over the old fortifications with its tall citadel and explored every tunnel and staircase. Once into the citadel itself we poked into every open doorway and climbed up and down from kitchens and guardhouses to the ‘long drop’. I will leave you to browse a small collection of photos I took - it was so wonderful.

We took a passage which promised to take us to the ramparts

Fascinating backlit transparencies (L + R) inset along the internal walls opposite embrasures (cenre)

Wildflowers were growing here and there and along the walls themselves

Succulents spilled over the walls in places

Stairs going up and down. Always a guess where they were taking us

We were heading to the barracks higher in the ramparts

Lindsay waiting patiently for me (I was off taking pix!). He then led me up to the citadel itself

By this time we were quite high

The stairs led us to the entrance to the citadel

L: a guard room perhaps, R:an extremely long drop perched out over the wall

We peered into everything

Stunning mountainous backdrop

What goes up eventually has to go down!

We walked back down to the village square - it was pretty steep

A pump by the side of the rood took my eye

Pasquale Paoli (with our Paolo sitting in his shadow)

It was here in Corte that the Pasquale Paoli, head of the Corsican resistance, declared their new republic in 1794, making Corte the capital. His statue is in the main square surrounded appropriately by people, cafes and restaurants. Many of the buildings are still pockmarked with hundreds bullet holes from the fight for ‘freedom’!  We found a wee café and collapsed into rickety chairs for cold drinks and a spot of lunch. It had been a fascinating visit.

Many of the building still show bullet damage

It was time to head on. This time we were heading back to the coast to Calvi which is set in a lovely bay. Late in the afternoon many of our group walked through the old town and were treated to a tasting of local produce and wine in a delicatessen specialising in charcuterie (I stayed back at the hotel with a couple of drinks having walked enough for the day). Later that night Lindsay and I found a delightful spot on the harbour watching the sun set behind the mountains while we ate dinner.