Wednesday, 14 June 2023

June 14 An afternoon in Palermo from a bus window

Once refreshed we were back exploring. As we explore we learn and something we learnt today is that the Greeks named this city Panormus meaning 'complete port'. After the Greek rule 831 to 1072 the city fell under Arab rule and this is when the city first became a capital. The Arabs 'adapted' the Greek name to Balarm, the root for Palermo's current name.  
Before we take to the streets there is a quite splendid 'square' at the centre of the historic quarter of the city -  the C18 Quattro Canti. It formed the heart of Palermo. The four ancient districts of Albergheria, Capo, Kalso and Vucciria all converged at Viliena Square. In each corner are buildings with concave Baroque facades, each with four storeys with three full-size statues in their centres. From street level up to the second storey they feature fountains, each dedicated to one the four seasons. The third storeys have statues of four Spanish rulers of Sicily. Above them at the roofline are their respective coats of arms. The fourth and top storeys of the buildings have statues of four female patron saints of Palermo: Christina, Ninfa, Olivia and Agata.
Fast forward to more recent times, the style of the Post Office building seemed very stark after the grand and elaborate buildings of yesteryear. It is typical of the fascist period, an example of Italian Rationalism a style of architecture dating from the 1920s - all unnecessary details stripped away. Yet tucked in amongst that rationalist architecture is the Grand Hotel et des Palmes. An historic hotel in Palermo in which many notable people have stayed - Heads of State, politicians, musicians and poets and during WWII it was US headquarters.

Enjoy the ride!

The traffic is fast and choked
Under the canopy of this rare street 'plantation' is a market  

An insurance building - no city survives without them
The Greeks named this city Panormus meaning 'complete port'. It certainly is very busy

It's not all palaces!
Half of Quattro Canti

It is not all grand and beautiful
Restoration work in progress


Quattro Canti - Piazza Vigliena a Baroque Square at the historic centre of the city

This was a shanty town. Hard to tell if it was condemned but it looks sad.
The Italian Rationalist Post Office

Grande Albergo Hotel has been home to many notable people

Teatro Massimo, the biggest opera house in Italy and one of the largest in Europe
Drinks with tortoises!
Even though we spent a lot of time sitting on buses and soaking up history and sights, we also walked a fair bit so we took a rest/drink break at a rather quirky place opposite the Opera House where a central pool housed dozens of tortoises who didn't look very happy.
Palermo has quite extensive gardens with  many exotics

"Like a bird on the wire .."
It had been a big but thoroughly engaging day hopping on and off buses and ducking in and out of rain showers which only added to the allure of the city. Feeling quite replete we dined in the hotel's rooftop restaurant that night. They brought us a sample of their bread to start with –  black bread which was intriguing, perhaps squid ink? But the oil was to die for. That was followed by a Bruschetta of Mojito's swordfish with beetroot gazpacho and mini seafood pastries.
For Primi pasta, Lindsay had  Risottato in scampi bisque, tuna ragù, peas, crunchy charcoal pod and I had a deliciously rich fungi risotto.  Both were delicious as was the wine. 
Dinner with a delightful view
Tomorrow is the start of our 15-day bus tour of Sicily, the Aeolian Islands and Malta. More anon ....

No comments:

Post a Comment

Please visit my other blogs too

At the beginning of most years I start a new travel blog which you can access via the links in the right navigation bar. I also have a recip...