Friday 20 January 2023

January 20 Stonington Island

 

Images of the explorations of Charcot and de Gerlache and other inspiring explorers continue to unfold in front of my eyes (in my mind) as we navigate a path south along the Peninsula and then westward. The stories of challenge and hardships, of excitement and deprivation make the scenes come alive.

 In the early hours this morning we arrived at Stonington Island where the plan was to go ashore. We landed on icy rocks (I was quaking in my boots but I made it ashore) and then we ploughed our way up the hill to check out the huts. I only floundered once when my foot went into a sneaky rock cavern hidden by snow. Incidentally it was here that the first two woman over-wintered in Antarctica in the late 1940s.  There had been a fair bit of recent snow so the going was a bit slow and it continued to snow while we were there which added an extra little challenge but it was rather an adventure and very beautiful. Of course it was cold but our parkas kept us toasty - mostly. 
The glacier in the background calved a number of times while we were on the island.
'They' said that the island is relatively flat – it is not!  But it is absolutely spectacular. On the Island, which is located in the NE part of Marguerite Bay along Graham land (the Peninsula), two scientific bases remain standing. The first base was established during the US Antarctic Service expedition led by Richard Byrd 1939-41.  Later a British base was built close by. It was from here that many explorers set off on dog sledges and managed to map a significant portion of the Antarctic Peninsula. As a matter of interest, the island was named after Stonington, Connecticut, home port of the sloop Hero in which Captain Nathaniel Palmer sighted the Antarctic continent in 1820.  That was a time of intensive exploration. In January that same year, a Russian expedition led by Fabian Gottlieb von Bellingshausen and Mikhail Lazarev became the first explorers to see and officially 'discover' the land of the continent of Antarctica. Many others were exploring this exciting and unknown southern-most continent. Heady days! It's interesting to me that this massive continent which with its islands and ice shelves is twice the size of Australia and yet remains in name the counter balance to the Arctic.  The name 'Arctic’ comes from the Greek word ‘arktos’, meaning ‘bear’ – the northern polar region is the sacred land of the polar bear, one of the largest land predators on the planet. And this relates to Antarctica how?? well no bears and ..... 
This was the British station
Inside it looked just like what it was - abandoned
It was a mighty day!
The US station
The remains of dog 'kennels' we think
Lindsay climbed the snow-covered rocks to the wee summit. Hooray!
The scenes was stark and ethereal at the same time
Time to head back to the mothership
We were welcomed back on board with cups of hot tea - mine was ginger and honey made fresh. Delicious. It was a great first landing for this expedition. 
We boarded and disembarked the zodiacs via this terrific platform and gangway 
We’re now heading for Charcot Island and should get there in the morning. 

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