August 6 Volos and Meteora

 

Approaching Volos

Early this morning we docked in Volos, one of the biggest port cities in Greece. It is located at the foot of Mount Pelion which, according to mythology, was a place of ‘celebration’ for gods and heroes, and the home of the centaurs. In Greek mythology, Chiron was held to be the wisest and most just of the centaurs, a great healer, astrologer, teacher and tutor.  This is the land of myth of Achilles and Jason and the Argonauts who set out in search of the Golden Fleece.  Greek mythology is mighty.  But back on track ……. we were heading for the famous Meteora and its monasteries suspended between sky and earth. That region is a very popular tourist destination and our excursion was going to be about eight hours. So we breakfasted early ready to disembark and board a coach which would take us northwest through the agricultural plains of Thessaly to reach Kalambaka, a small town nestled at the foot of the Meteora rocks. 

Top: Here they grow apples, plums, cotton, tobacco, sheep, wheat and barley (water is pumped from underground for irrigation). Bottom: Pindus mountain range runs like a backbone from north to south.

Along the road we passed many tiny shrines-chapels commemorating a loved one

A miracle this spire-like rock remains standing

Top L: Kalambaka. Bottom R: Halfway up this cliff is a cave dedicated to St George.

Not far from Kalambaka halfway up an almost vertical cliff is a cave where a woman built a sanctuary to St George after she prayed to him to cure her of an illness - she was cured. She or others climb there every year and leave a scarf.

Here and there are giant rocks with bizarre shapes and which range in height from 100 to 150 metres. Atop these giant tors are the ‘monasteries in the sky’.  

Some of monasteries of Meteora

Once a monastic community with 24 monasteries, Meteora now consists of only five active monasteries. They were first built in the C14 by monks searching for a place where they could stay isolated and pray undisturbed by the rest of the world. Until 1920 most of the Meteora monasteries could only be reached by getting into a net and being hauled up by a rope - we saw one of those nets when we reached one of the monasteries. Later the net was replaced by a cage which was also hauled up by rope. Fortunately, steps were cut afterwards to all of the monasteries although some also have elevators I believe and at least one has a cable car.

Climbing to reach the Holy Trinity Monastery perched high above the canyon floor

Top L: The platform where visitors were hauled up to. Bottom R: The capstan wheel that operated the rope on net or later cage 

We climbed almost 200 steps to reach the Holy Trinity Monastery perched almost in the clouds high above the canyon floor. Coming down was a little scary as you were very aware of the precipitous drop to the canyon floor. We visited the place where people were hauled to from, or were let down to the canyon floor. I believe there is an icon at the top of the haul that was kissed in gratitude by those who made it to the top (evidentially, they only replaced the rope when it broke - ouch!). I am just glad we got a ride halfway up and there were steps!. 

12,000L wine barrel - that's a lot of wine and headaches!

Holy Trinity Chapel and grounds

The chapel was surrounded by tranquil well-ordered gardens. Once inside in the cool of the vestibule we were surrounded by glorious iconographs and paintings shimmering with gold and silver.  The dress code for women to enter the chapel was that knees were to be covered by a shirt. My knees were covered by respectable trousers and a top that almost reached my knees but that wasn't good enough. I managed to sneak through in the crowd however to ogle the breathtaking interior of the chapel. Sadly no photographs were allowed. Suffice it to say the chapel although small, was stunning and quite opulent. Next stop was at the Holy Monastery of St Stephen - a nunnery which like the other holy places was perched on towering rocks. We approached this fortress-like complex across a narrow bridge spanning a deep rocky gorge. The wind was quite ferocious so I didn't linger on the bridge to take pix but held tight to my hat and other bits and pieces . The gorge below the bridge was quite scary. Again my attire didn't pass muster but our delightful guide Costas appealed to the Sister on the gate and I was allowed to enter. Thank you Costas. Inside the chapel was glorious but again no photos were allowed. The setting was lovely with quiet gardens and stunning views.

Stunning view from the Holy Monastery of St Stephen

Bottom L: The daily 'events' of the nunnery were signaled by this bell-like structure

After our visit to the monasteries, we returned to Kalambaka for a typical (touristy) Greek lunch. Then it was time to pile into the buses for the 2h30m drive back to the port of Volos and out ship. It had been a  wonder-filled day.

Fascinating old quarry with cypress growing along the excavated levels.

..... and we sailed off into the sunset!