12 March 2023 - Sailing in the Strait of Magellan

The Strait is not straight at all but takes the form of a giant S

Today we were sailing in the Strait of Magellan. At 600 odd Km it is the longest natural passage between the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans and was the second most used passage between the two oceans, after Cape Horn, until the Panama Canal was opened in 1914.  The Strait separates the continent of South America from the islands of Tierra del Fuego; Chile currently has sovereignty over it. As you will remember from school history this sea route was discovered by the famous Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan who is supposed to have organised the first circumnavigation of the world in the C16th.

We were to spend the afternoon, or a good part of it, cruising in zodiacs around the Tucker Islands which are brimming with wildlife. The Strait is a busy waterway but this small group of islands are tucked away in a quiet 'corner'. The waters were calm and silent but for the birds and the plopping and chattering of sea lions.  A delightful, deafening silence. Around us were huge kelp beds, a wonderful hunting ground for the birds and sea lions. 

Unlike the snow-capped peaks we had been passing in the fjordlands, this snowy topping is guano! 

Every crevasse was occupied by birds, here they are the 'blue-eyed' Neotropic shags 

We saw many species of birds but yours truly couldn't quite capture their splendour on the iPhone. You will have to believe me that as well as these unusual shags we saw red-headed Turkey vultures, the stunning sexually dimorphic Kelp geese - and a few others. We also saw families of sea lion frolicking around, curious to check us out AND a small colony of Magellanic penguins in the sporty striped suits of feathers.

The peaty ground provides a wonderful place for burrows.

Then we were back in the Strait watching passing cargo and ferry vehicles plying the waters. The Strait is of variable width with some sections extremely narrow hence wee lighthouses/beacons along the shores - and the need for us to have on board a pilot while we were going through the fjords as well as along the Beagle Channel and Magellan Strait. 

Ice caps oozed like fondant spilling over the mountain tops. It was a breathtaking scene.

As always there was an themed afternoon tea and sometimes a special tasting. Tonight was the Chef hosted a Bellota with rich shavings of Pata Negra, olives and chunks of crispy bread - plus wine of course. You will not be surprised to know that the lounge was full.