Friday 17 March 2023

16-17 March 2023 - Tortel and the Pulluche Channel

Day 10 already and timewise we have travelled way more than half away on our Chilean Fjord journey and, according to the map, we were between the Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields. The geography of Chile is rather a mystery to me –about 4000km long and only a matter of a few100 km wide with many different climatic regions from deserts, lakes, towering mountains and glaciers.

We navigated in to Tortel, a little fishing village located at the junction of two rivers flowing out into the Pacific Ocean. I’m not a huge fan of visiting villages. Yes I know that tourism helps a little to support some of these communities (probably the tour company $s rather than what the tourists spend which is precious little), but on this trip I was more interested in wildlife, geography and geology. However …. here we were, and it was picturesque (and one tries to not feel guilty not buying yet more trinkets which customs officers will confiscate - if there's room in the case in the first place which there wasn't!). This community was once rather isolated but recently had a road built in from somewhere, prior to that access was by water.    
The local industry, in addition to fishing, is timber. Everything is made of wood and quite quirky. We walked along the waterfront on wooden pontoon/pathways suspended a few metres above the water. The waterfront was glorious with lush vegetation and fungi and was alive with birds and insects – I was thoroughly engaged.  
The bees and humming birds were busy around the lush Magellanic fuchsia
Top L This looked like a species of Holly bush; Top R bright fungi grew alongside lichen many places;
pink was a predominant colour with a profusion of the Magellanic fuchsia and berries spilling down the hillsides.
The village was built on the slopes of the fjord - everywhere was steps - and wood
It was quite intriguing to explore the shoreline of this village on timber planks
Then we met at the village rotunda at the appointed hour for some music/entertainment and local handicrafts.
Quaint! A few of the village folk entertained us with music and dance while others served us Pisco Sours (a delicious South American) drink and empanadas. 
Then it was back on board where we were treated to a BBQ on the back deck. When all else fails food and a couple of drinks seems to be the answer to everything.
It's a hard life! but we were welcomed back on board with a BBQ lunch
Apropos of nothing, this is an interesting chart from one of our lectures - an ever changing world  

A black-browed Albatross following our passage, glorious thing
After a lovely sunset,  the next day we were sailing in the Pulluche canal with much similar scenery – narrow channels and beautiful mountains spilling down into the water, but in addition this location was recognised as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 1979.
A fish farm
I know that people complain about fish farms and the potential and/or actual damage to the local waterways and fish but with native fish stocks dwindling world-wide and in some places totally wiped out, and people being encouraged to eat more fish than red meat, the conclusions are pretty obvious to me - stop eating fish and eat farmed 'other' meat or farm fish. It equates to the arguments raised against the bushmeat industry. Stepping down off my soapbox now!
Elsewhere tranquility

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