Friday, 30 June 2023

June 30 Valletta at our own pace

 We say, and sometimes desperately feel like, we want to rest, to just kick back, but exploring new places on our own at our own place has a great allure. There were a few places we hoped to see that had been on our tour guide which they didn't get to so off we went today – more climbing!  To get anywhere from our hotel we had to climb up to the citadel, the lovely old city. 

 There have been so many movies or rather scenes from movies shot in Malta, many around the magnificent harbour that they have created a Movie Trail. Russel Crow was supposed to be in town for more filming.
The new rather stunning Parliament House built in 2015
These colourful hanging balconies were built to relieve the starkness of the fortified city
Palm Goddess bronze (2015) stands outside the ruins of the Royal opera house
This is an interesting plaque. Zoom in to read the text.
I love the sign for Wifi above to old telephone booth

Many Clubs or bars had we booths in the entrance where lottery tickets are sold
The philharmonic society was old but quite grand
The very British Wembley Store
So much is still very British from the Clubs to the shops. The Wembley Store is a specialty food store with a range of goodies and wine – very British. We stocked up for a picnic.
A drinks break - iced coffee and berry smoothy type thing.

Many street corners featured shrines or mini statues 
We were heading for Upper Barrakka Gardens so we headed off. After a zig zag climb through old Valletta we reached this tranquil spot. The gardens themselves are not fantastic but offer lots of shade and the setting is spectacular. From the terraces outside the arched you gave the most amazing 180+ degrees view of the Grand Harbour. Well worth the climb. It is built on part of the bastions which was guarded by the Italian knights. The arches were built by the Italian knight, Flaminio Balbiano in 1661 as a place for the Knights to relax. In the C19th it was transformed into beautiful gardens decorated with fountains and monuments. You also have a birds eye view of the Saluting Battery below; the cannons fire at noon and 4pm Monday to Saturday. There’s a café there but where the chairs and tables are were pretty much covered with bird droppings and nobody is cleaning up tables - all self serve. From there you can take a lift down to the harbour to catch a ferry or simply wander. 
For posterity!
The café promised a respite from the heat but it was just too dirty
Entrance to the saluting battery
Twice a day there is a ceremonial gun salute. 
From the gardens we descended and by sheer accident found one of the entrances to the Lascaris War Rooms, an underground complex of tunnels and chambers that housed the War Headquarters from where the defence of the island was conducted during WWII; the rooms were later used by NATO. It is now open to the public as a museum; we had thought to return but we didn't make it. 
Opposite the entrance is a delightful secluded garden, the Herbert Ganado Gardens. He was a prominent  Maltese lawyer, politician and author.
Everywhere around Valletta we were trampling around Bastions, fortifications which held the city safe - or so it seems. 
On the left are the Laparelli Garden, named after the Italian architect who designed Valletta in 1566. It is a public garden located in the ditch below Valletta’s City Gate bastions. I guess they could attack any would be intruders from these humorous 'bollards'.
From there we hikes back into the city for a late lunch - a deliciously ordinary toasted lamb sandwich.

This pair of mobile phone 'shops' were literally as wide as the doorway and sandwiched a grander affair.

Wednesday, 28 June 2023

June 29 Downtime in Valetta

This morning we said goodbye to our lovely tour Manager, Gilberto, who had been a wonderful and attentive host, and also to a number our fellow travelers. Some like us, were staying on in Valetta but we were looking forward to some time alone and a little 'downtime' before our next 'adventure'.  With no set times or plans for today, we had a late breakfast and then explored our hotel which we hadn’t really done before - quite a lavish hotel by our usual standards. The hotel is packed with Brits and quite a few family groups; for the POMs Malta was always a place to go which required no VISA. Of course it has been independent from Britain for almost 60 years but old habits die hard and it remains a summer destination for many from the UK. It was a day of pleasing ourselves after a couple of weeks, actually a month, of being on the go every day. Utter bliss! 

The hotel is built into the city and water-edge fortification walls
Another world - the hotel has its own marina (it's a 5 Star hotel)
Our room is at the end of this pathway
Hotel guests sunbaked and swam from the rocks on the edge of the hotel 'grounds' 
.... and the pool. They took up their spots right after breakfast and stayed all day!
A mammoth hotel and quite luxurious
We stayed 'in' today! We even indulged in room service, a first for us. 

June 28 Mdina and farewell to our tour

 

This marathon day ended with a stroll through, and farewell dinner in, the ancient capital of Malta, Mdina. The city was founded as Maleth in around the C8th BC by Phoenician ‘settlers’ and was later renamed Melite (meaning honey sweet or maybe glorious, splendid) by the Romans. It was reduced to its present size during the Arab occupation of Malta when the city adopted its present name; derived from the Arabic word medina. The city remained the capital of Malta throughout the Middle Ages until the arrival of the Order of St. John in 1530 when the capital was shifted to Valetta. When that happened the population declined so much that people started to consider it a ghost town. It is from that time that Mdina’s nickname became the ‘Silent City’ – it has retained that name.

Mdina just before sunset
This restaurant is housed in what used to be gunpowder magazines for the main fortified bastion
After dinner we climbed the walls to look out over the lights of the new, modern city of Rabat which surrounds the old citadel. Quite spectacular and a fitting end to our tour to ancient, magnificent Malta which had started a couple of weeks ago in Sicily via the Aeolian Islands. 

2024 looms!

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